THE RIGHT COLOUR

Identifying and selecting the right colour will make all the difference to a successful restoration. You will need to decide what they are before you start. It will be too late once you have stripped off all the original paint.

Even mowers that are rusty usually have some original paint. This can often be found underneath chain covers or on the inside or inner faces of parts that are rusty on the outside.

These small patches of paint can be used to check the colour you will need later during the restoration.

HOW MUCH?

250ml is normally enough to give a hand mower a couple of coats of paint with enough left over for touching-up chips and scratches. 500ml is often more than enough for motor mowers.

FINDING THE PAINT

Most paint manufacturers produce colour cards that illustrate their range of products. These have a limited choice of colours but if you are lucky you will find one that matches your mower. 

In most cases, for a true match, you will need to get the paint mixed specially. many shops can mix paint to match items supplied by you. Take part of the mower with paint on to the shop and they will try and match it.

Another approach is to use paint manufacturers' colour cards to match the colour you need. These cards have a code number that suppliers use to produce the colour.

Specially mixed paint costs about the same as off-the-shelf or ready-mixed products but the big advantage is that you can always get very close to the correct colour.

NOTES ON OLD PAINT

Be aware that the paint used on many old machines deteriorates over time. The paint may oxidise through exposure to the air or become stained by oil or grease deposits. These effects can change the chemical composition of the paint.  This means that it may be difficult to obtain an accurate match. However, experience shows that this is not a major problem and it often possible to match very closely to the correct original colour.

In the past, paint manufacturers were unable to produce consistent colours from batch to batch during the manufacturing process. Mower manufacturers were also less concerned about using exactly the same colour for all their products. This means that shade or colour of otherwise identical machines can vary. 

Because of this, it can be argued, there is no such thing as "the correct colour" for any particular old mower. This is why the Old Lawnmower Club generally recommends matching colours for each machine, particularly older or less common models. 

Modern chemicals and pigments ensure that today's paints are more durable than those from yesteryear. They are also more glossy. Older mowers often appear to have a semi gloss finish that can be replicated by modern "eggshell" type finishes. Some of this dullness may be caused by weathering of the original paint surface. Eggshell paints can give an attractive finish but are not as durable as paints specifically designed for exterior use.

THE BASICS

Be patient if you are having problems removing a seized part. A little time spent thinking about a problem now is better than making time later to fix something broken in the heat of the moment.

Most seized parts can be freed easily without any special tools.

Removing rust and other deposits from exposed threads by wire brushing makes it easier to remove nuts.

Apply lubricating or penetrating oil to help free seized parts. It is amazing how well this works.

For really stubborn parts, immersion in diesel oil can often work wonders, especially if you leave it for a few days.

Sometimes it may be necessary to drill out a thread or cut off a bolt head. This is a last resort and you will need to take care to work on something that can be replaced relatively easily later on. Remember, nuts and bolts are easier to replace than other parts of the mower.

SPECIAL TOOLS 

Impact screwdrivers can be a useful tool. These are designed to turn the nut or bolt a fraction of a turn suddenly and with additional force. They should be used carefully but can often free seemingly seized parts.

Gear pullers can be helpful for removing sprockets or gear wheels that are stuck on their shaft. Ideally the pulling force should be applied as close to the central shaft as possible to avoid placing undue stress on the outer extremeties of components. There is a potential problem with spoked or open sprockets found on many early hand mowers. It is very easy to apply too much force with these tools and break the sprocket so proceed with care. Try not to apply force to the outer rim of these.

Drifts and tapered cold chisels can be used to apply force behind a sprocket or gear wheel, again as close to the shaft as possible, to "push" it off the shaft.

USING HEAT

Applying heat to the seized components often helps to free them. This is a specialised task, particularly for larger or heavier items, and the best advice is to ask someone who knows what they are doing to help.

Many local blacksmiths, metalworkers or welders will have the correct tools and will be happy to help for a small fee. 

Small parts can often be freed simply by placing them in the base of an open fire or bonfire and leaving them for an hour or two to heat up. Make sure the parts have cooled down before you handle them afterwards. 

Do not force cooling by immersing parts in water as this is potentially dangerous and may cause damage.

BASIC TOOLKIT

It always helps to have the right tools and very few are needed to restore most mowers. 

This is not a definitive list. Nor is it designed to cover all eventualities. But it does illustrate the sorts of tools that will be useful. 

TOOLS

• spanners to dismantle and reassemble mower
• screwdrivers
• pliers or mole grips
• workbench or table
• vice to hold parts
• old jam or pickle jars for small amounts of paint stripper, degreaser or white spirit to clean components and tools

CLEANING/PREPARATION

• wire brushes to clean off loose paint and rust
• glass paper or sanding blocks to clean off loose paint and rust
• old paint brushes for stripping and cleaning parts
• old chisels and scrapers to remove old paint and oil deposits
• paint stripper (water soluble)
• degreasing agent (water soluble)
• supply of old rags to wipe and dry parts and tools

STORING ITEMS

• small plastics tubs to hold and store small parts
• larger boxes to keep parts when not working on them

FINISHING

• good quality paint brushes for painting
• artists' brush for touching in lettering and fine detail
• clothes pegs to hold parts while they are drying
• wire hooks to suspend parts while they are drying
• white spirit/brush cleaner
• dust pan and brush for cleaning up

PROTECTION

• gloves to protect hands
• goggles to protect eyes
• old clothes or overalls to protect clothing
• face mask to prevent breathing in dust